文／謝爾庭 Writer／Hsieh Er Ting
攝影／陳繼遠 Photographer／Chen Chi Yuan
從傳統珠寶製造發展出全新商業模式的「日成珠寶製造股份有限公司(Regal Jewelry Manufacture Co.,Ltd.)」，其經驗深具啟發性。日成珠寶(RJM)是泰國前三大珠寶製造商，於2017年6月以日成控股股份有限公司(KY-4807) 回台上市，成為台灣第一家珠寶精品業上市公司。
本次專訪邀請了日成控股集團(Regal Holding)旗下新事業體「日成國際企業股份有限公司(RIC)」總經理洪雯娟(Cherry Hung)，分享日成如何善用自身的國際化觀點、生產技術優勢，以跨界和協同設計的方式迎合新世代的消費者。同時，也提出對台灣金工產業的深刻觀察及建議。
How can the metalworking and jewelry industry create greater added value, respond to changes in consumer demand, and eventually go international?
Regal Jewelry Manufacture Co., Ltd., which has developed a new business model from traditional jewelry manufacturing, has an inspiring experience. Regal Jewelry is the top three jewelry manufacturers in Thailand. It returned to Taiwan in 2017 as Regal Holdings Co., Ltd.,(KY-4807) and is the first listed company in the jewelry boutique industry in Taiwan.
In this interview, we have invited a new venture under Regal Holdings: “Reunite inspiring creation Co., Ltd. (RIC)” Chief Operational Officer, Cherry Hung(Hong Wenjuan) shared how Regal group utilize its international views and production technology advantages to cater to the new generation of consumers through cross-border and collaborative design. At the same time, she also put forward in-depth observations and suggestions on Taiwan’s metalworking industry.
In recent years, the jewelry boutique consumer market has undergone several generations of changes. According to research, new consumers represented by Generation Y and Generation Z have accounted for 40% of the global population. Compared with the baby boomers who were highly loyal to brands in the past, the new generation of consumers is a digital native and has a strong acceptance of information. Pay more attention to values and community identities.
In view of this trend, Regal group has entered a new industrial ecosystem. It has adjusted some production lines into diversified and flexible production lines, and actively cooperates with social media (such as entertainers, KOL, Internet celebrities, etc.): Social media celebrities operate personalized brands, and Regal Jewelry produces products for them. For the new generation of consumer groups, Regal Jewelry has a strong supply chain, and the company has obtained various certifications from the United States to the European Union, regardless of quality, environmental protection and corporate social responsibility. For Regal Jewelry, social media has become a new sales channel, bringing a win-win situation to this cross-border cooperation.
In addition, Regal Jewelry has modularized its accumulated 200,000 products in the past, thus providing the possibility of small-scale production and customization. To realize this business model, diverse and flexible production lines must be re-examined in advance, and all products must be reviewed to design modular parts and customizable options. Besides, we also rely on masters with decades of experience to actually adjust each process, such as adjusting a circular design to a square design.
Cherry specifically mentioned that the metal processing industry is a technology-intensive and highly human resource field. The perfect mirror polishing effect ultimately requires the hands of the master and cannot be fully automated. It is such artificial production conditions that make the production line more personalized and flexible, close to the actual needs of consumers, and integrate life and design.
More than 30 years of market experience has taught Regal group that Taiwan’s manufacturing industry at the end of its development there are often only two ways left to pursue, timeliness and costdown. Regarding the transformation of the jewelry and metalworking industries, Regal group CEO Sarah Lin proposed the concept of “Designer Platform”, hoping to transform factories and designers together. As a result, she recruited Cherry Hung, who was the Deputy Director of the Industry Promotion and Service Department of the Institute for Information Industry at that time.
Cherry was not only responsible for assisting industrial upgrading and transformation tasks, but also responsible for the implementation of innovation and entrepreneurship and accelerator-related businesses of the Small and Medium-sized Enterprise Division of the Ministry of Economic Affairs(SMEA). Therefore, the “D.Vita To Build the Dream of Design Platform” was based on “Incubating and Supporting New Designers.” As the core concept, hoping to use the D.Vita platform to establish an “One-Stops Services” that can not only provide designers with “Design to Market One-Stops Services”, but also meet the new consumption of customized products as “One-stop design matching service from market to design”.
Cherry pointed out that the biggest challenge designers encounter is not the style, but the “supply chain” issue. For example, you can only produce one hand-made product a week. If you suddenly receive an order for 30 pieces a day, you cannot finish it yourself, it is also difficult to send out the package. Because most suppliers have “Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ)” restrictions, production lines start at hundreds or thousands of units. Even if you can order so many items at a time, there will be financial pressure, or worry that cannot sell them out; the interlocking result is that it is difficult for many hand-made entrepreneurs to expand their business.
因此，日成集團於2020年開始推動「D.Vita設計築夢」及「ReModa設計巢平台」。D.Vita平台除了提供設計師一般性創業育成諮詢及人脈資源外，同時，因應全球首飾跨界設計應用及多元發展趨勢，日成集團結合D.Vita社群夥伴特別以三大未來首飾發展的潛力主題：「Fashion Tech時尚穿戴科技首飾」、「Mix & Play混搭把玩」、「Comfort and Serenity寧靜寧靜」作為「2020 D.Vita特約設計師」的遴選依據。
Therefore, in 2020, Regal Group will start to promote D.Vita designer incubation projects and ReModa e-Commerce platform. D.Vita plans not only to provide designers with startup consulting and network resources; for designers who wish to develop directional development, Regal group has also formulated three potential directions for future jewelry development: Fashion Tech wearable jewelry technology, Mix & Play, Comfort and Sanity quiet and harmonious design. Through the support of hackathons and subsequent marketing channel resources, the designer’s ideas can blossom and bear fruit. The ReModa design nest platform assists customers in finding the right designer directly, greatly reducing the obstacles for designers to receive orders, and providing customers with more options for commissioning.
總體來說，日成集團希望從設計發想、原物料選擇、生產製程、行銷包裝，逐步建立專屬於設計師的服務生態鏈，讓年輕設計師更有機會發光發熱。Cherry強調，創建從設計到市場的一站式服務(One-stop services from Design to Market)，不僅為日成集團及設計師的轉型課題，更是日成多年以來，希望能為台灣長期被國際低估的設計力善盡一份社會責任，同時亦能透過日成集團的拋磚引玉，能吸引更多人及企業能一同貢獻0.01力量，共同為台灣建立一個完善的設計服務生態系。
In general, Regal Group hopes to gradually establish a service ecological chain exclusive to designers from design ideas, raw material selection, production processes, marketing and packaging, so that young designers have more opportunities to shine. Cherry emphasized that the creation of this platform is not only for the transformation of the Regal Group and designers, but also for the corporate social responsibility that Regal has hoped to fulfill for many years.
From a broader view, the global integration of Taiwan is relatively deficient. The environment is also somewhat isolated. An English designer might be bilingual or even trilingual, thanks to the privilege of the European market. However, Taiwan, which should also appreciate its advantage as a pivot of Asia, the environment is more conservative, unwilling to reach out.
Internalization reflects directly on the perception of foreign consumer culture. Take Southeast Asia, which is one of the nearest regions for Taiwan for example, consumers in Southeast Asia tend to show personal characteristics by wearing jewelry. They prefer jewelry with freestyle and multiple collocations. In contrast, Taiwanese costumers prefer Japanese or Korean style, relatively smaller and more delicate design. If Taiwanese designers limit themselves in their cultural experience, their products may find difficult to be popular in Southeast Asia market.
而要走向國際，Cherry從日成集團深耕國際市場的經驗出發，認為台灣的設計師首要任務是善用媒體平台，發展自己的特色，才能吸引到強調議題與社群認同的Y世代及Z世代。「只做設計是不夠的。」Cherry指出，設計師一定要了解自己的消費者（Know Your Customer），不僅能自建品牌，更要具備行銷能力。最後，設計師必須敞開心胸，樂於接受新觀念。跳脫自己思維的框架，並願意接受批評，才能在快速變動的市場中掌握消費者的需求。
To order to go global, based on the experience of Regal Jewelry, Cherry underlines the priority for Taiwanese designers: utilizing the media platform and develop a unique feature. That is how you can attract Y-generation and Z-generation, who value community identity and social issues. “It’s not enough to just design stuff.” Cherry points out. As a designer, one must Know Your Customer, develop a brand, and sell it. Lastly, designers must open their minds and embrace new concepts. Only those willing to accept judgments and think outside the box can grasp the consumer demands in the rapidly changing market.
In fact, there are many potential designers and young brands in Taiwan. Cherry expects that Taiwan’s jewelry boutique industry will be more diversified and livelier in the future, and at the same time, it will gain greater visibility in the world. At this point, although the Regal Group cannot replace designers in designing, it hopes to help every designer in dialogue with the broader market through the support of the platform and service ecosystem.
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