文／謝爾庭 Writer／Hsieh Er Ting
攝影／陳繼遠 Photographer／Chen Chi Yuan
金工與珠寶產業如何能創造更大附加價值，回應消費者需求的改變，最終走向國際化？
從傳統珠寶製造發展出全新商業模式的「日成珠寶製造股份有限公司(Regal Jewelry Manufacture Co.,Ltd.)」，其經驗深具啟發性。日成珠寶(RJM)是泰國前三大珠寶製造商，於2017年6月以日成控股股份有限公司(KY-4807) 回台上市，成為台灣第一家珠寶精品業上市公司。
本次專訪邀請了日成控股集團(Regal Holding)旗下新事業體「日成國際企業股份有限公司(RIC)」總經理洪雯娟(Cherry Hung)，分享日成如何善用自身的國際化觀點、生產技術優勢，以跨界和協同設計的方式迎合新世代的消費者。同時，也提出對台灣金工產業的深刻觀察及建議。
How can the metalworking and jewelry industry create greater added value, respond to changes in consumer demand, and eventually go international?
Regal Jewelry Manufacture Co., Ltd., which has developed a new business model from traditional jewelry manufacturing, has an inspiring experience. Regal Jewelry is the top three jewelry manufacturers in Thailand. It returned to Taiwan in 2017 as Regal Holdings Co., Ltd.,(KY-4807) and is the first listed company in the jewelry boutique industry in Taiwan.
In this interview, we have invited a new venture under Regal Holdings: “Reunite inspiring creation Co., Ltd. (RIC)” Chief Operational Officer, Cherry Hung(Hong Wenjuan) shared how Regal group utilize its international views and production technology advantages to cater to the new generation of consumers through cross-border and collaborative design. At the same time, she also put forward in-depth observations and suggestions on Taiwan’s metalworking industry.
（圖片提供：日成珠寶）
迎向新世代–跨界合作、客製化與協同設計
近年來，珠寶精品消費市場發生了世代轉變。根據研究，以Y世代、Z世代為代表的新消費者已佔全球人口40%，相較於過往對品牌高忠誠度的嬰兒潮世代，新一代消費者屬於數位原生世代，資訊接受能力強，更強調價值觀與社群認同。
In recent years, the jewelry boutique consumer market has undergone several generations of changes. According to research, new consumers represented by Generation Y and Generation Z have accounted for 40% of the global population. Compared with the baby boomers who were highly loyal to brands in the past, the new generation of consumers is a digital native and has a strong acceptance of information. Pay more attention to values and community identities.
有鑒於這項趨勢，日成集團為跨入新型產業生態鏈，已將部分產線調整成符合多元化彈性的生產線，並積極與社群媒體(如藝人、KOL、網紅等)進行跨界合作：由社群媒體經營個性化品牌，日成珠寶則代為生產產品。對新世代消費族群而言，日成珠寶擁有強大的供應鏈，公司更獲得美國及歐盟各種認證，不管在品質、環保以及企業社會責任上。而對日成珠寶來說，社群媒體成了新的銷售渠道，為這項跨界合作帶來雙贏。
In view of this trend, Regal group has entered a new industrial ecosystem. It has adjusted some production lines into diversified and flexible production lines, and actively cooperates with social media (such as entertainers, KOL, Internet celebrities, etc.): Social media celebrities operate personalized brands, and Regal Jewelry produces products for them. For the new generation of consumer groups, Regal Jewelry has a strong supply chain, and the company has obtained various certifications from the United States to the European Union, regardless of quality, environmental protection and corporate social responsibility. For Regal Jewelry, social media has become a new sales channel, bringing a win-win situation to this cross-border cooperation.
除此之外，日成珠寶也將過往累積的二十幾萬種的商品模組化，提供小量生產、客製化的可能。要實現這個商業模式，要有多元化彈性的生產線，必須事先重新審視所有產品，設計出可模組化的部分及可供客製的選項。此外，更仰賴有數十年經驗的老師傅，實際調整每道工序，例如將圓圈設計調整為方形設計。
Cherry特別提到，金工產業其實是技術密集和高度人力的領域，完美的鏡面拋光效果終究需要師傅的手感，不可能完全自動化。正是這樣人工生產的條件，讓產線更具客製化的彈性，貼近消費者的實際需求，讓生活與設計結合。
In addition, Regal Jewelry has modularized its accumulated 200,000 products in the past, thus providing the possibility of small-scale production and customization. To realize this business model, diverse and flexible production lines must be re-examined in advance, and all products must be reviewed to design modular parts and customizable options. Besides, we also rely on masters with decades of experience to actually adjust each process, such as adjusting a circular design to a square design.
Cherry specifically mentioned that the metal processing industry is a technology-intensive and highly human resource field. The perfect mirror polishing effect ultimately requires the hands of the master and cannot be fully automated. It is such artificial production conditions that make the production line more personalized and flexible, close to the actual needs of consumers, and integrate life and design.
（圖片提供：日成珠寶）
D.Vita設計築夢–育成下一代新銳設計師
三十幾年的市場經驗讓日成了解到：製造業發展到最後，往往只剩下追求時效及降低成本兩條路。在珠寶及金工產業的轉型議題上，日成執行長林如茵提出了「設計師平台（Designer Platform）」的理念，希望讓工廠與設計師一起轉型，也因此延攬當時擔任資策會產業推動與服務處的洪雯娟副處長(Cherry)。
當時Cherry除負責協助產業升級轉型任務外，同時也負責執行經濟部中小企業處有關創新創業等育成及加速器相關業務，因此，「D.Vita設計築夢平台」以「新銳設計師育成與扶持」為核心理念，希望藉由D.Vita平台建立一個除提供設計師「設計到市場的一站式設計師育成服務(One-Stops Services)」外，同時也能滿足客製商品新消費力的「市場到設計的一站式設計媒合服務」。
More than 30 years of market experience has taught Regal group that Taiwan’s manufacturing industry at the end of its development there are often only two ways left to pursue, timeliness and costdown. Regarding the transformation of the jewelry and metalworking industries, Regal group CEO Sarah Lin proposed the concept of “Designer Platform”, hoping to transform factories and designers together. As a result, she recruited Cherry Hung, who was the Deputy Director of the Industry Promotion and Service Department of the Institute for Information Industry at that time.
Cherry was not only responsible for assisting industrial upgrading and transformation tasks, but also responsible for the implementation of innovation and entrepreneurship and accelerator-related businesses of the Small and Medium-sized Enterprise Division of the Ministry of Economic Affairs(SMEA). Therefore, the “D.Vita To Build the Dream of Design Platform” was based on “Incubating and Supporting New Designers.” As the core concept, hoping to use the D.Vita platform to establish an “One-Stops Services” that can not only provide designers with “Design to Market One-Stops Services”, but also meet the new consumption of customized products as “One-stop design matching service from market to design”.
Cherry指出，從過去觀察設計師遇到最大的挑戰不在於風格或創意，而是「供應鏈」的問題。例如一週只能生產一件手作產品，如果突然接到一天三十件的訂單，不僅自己做不完，也很難發包出去。因為大部分的供應商都有「最小訂購量（MOQ）」的限制，產線以數百、數千單位起跳。即使可以一次訂那麼多條，也會有資金壓力，或擔心銷售不出去；環環相扣的結果，就是讓許多手作創業者難以擴大規模。
Cherry pointed out that the biggest challenge designers encounter is not the style, but the “supply chain” issue. For example, you can only produce one hand-made product a week. If you suddenly receive an order for 30 pieces a day, you cannot finish it yourself, it is also difficult to send out the package. Because most suppliers have “Minimum Order Quantity (MOQ)” restrictions, production lines start at hundreds or thousands of units. Even if you can order so many items at a time, there will be financial pressure, or worry that cannot sell them out; the interlocking result is that it is difficult for many hand-made entrepreneurs to expand their business.
因此，日成集團於2020年開始推動「D.Vita設計築夢」及「ReModa設計巢平台」。D.Vita平台除了提供設計師一般性創業育成諮詢及人脈資源外，同時，因應全球首飾跨界設計應用及多元發展趨勢，日成集團結合D.Vita社群夥伴特別以三大未來首飾發展的潛力主題：「Fashion Tech時尚穿戴科技首飾」、「Mix & Play混搭把玩」、「Comfort and Serenity寧靜寧靜」作為「2020 D.Vita特約設計師」的遴選依據。
經審查獲選者，將可成為D.Vita特約設計師並享有「D.Vita設計築夢加速器」3-6個月密集培訓，其中涵蓋時尚駭客松、後續行銷通路資源的支持，讓新銳設計師的概念能夠開花結果。同時D.Vita平台也協助客戶直接找到合適的設計師，大幅降低設計師接單上的障礙，也提供客戶更多樣的委製選擇。除此，D.Vita特約設計師也可透過「ReModa設計巢平台」對接消費市場及國際市場通路。
Therefore, in 2020, Regal Group will start to promote D.Vita designer incubation projects and ReModa e-Commerce platform. D.Vita plans not only to provide designers with startup consulting and network resources; for designers who wish to develop directional development, Regal group has also formulated three potential directions for future jewelry development: Fashion Tech wearable jewelry technology, Mix & Play, Comfort and Sanity quiet and harmonious design. Through the support of hackathons and subsequent marketing channel resources, the designer’s ideas can blossom and bear fruit. The ReModa design nest platform assists customers in finding the right designer directly, greatly reducing the obstacles for designers to receive orders, and providing customers with more options for commissioning.
總體來說，日成集團希望從設計發想、原物料選擇、生產製程、行銷包裝，逐步建立專屬於設計師的服務生態鏈，讓年輕設計師更有機會發光發熱。Cherry強調，創建從設計到市場的一站式服務(One-stop services from Design to Market)，不僅為日成集團及設計師的轉型課題，更是日成多年以來，希望能為台灣長期被國際低估的設計力善盡一份社會責任，同時亦能透過日成集團的拋磚引玉，能吸引更多人及企業能一同貢獻0.01力量，共同為台灣建立一個完善的設計服務生態系。
In general, Regal Group hopes to gradually establish a service ecological chain exclusive to designers from design ideas, raw material selection, production processes, marketing and packaging, so that young designers have more opportunities to shine. Cherry emphasized that the creation of this platform is not only for the transformation of the Regal Group and designers, but also for the corporate social responsibility that Regal has hoped to fulfill for many years.
走向國際之必要–台灣珠寶精品產業的未來
從大環境來看，台灣整體跟國際化的鏈結與整體環境仍有進步空間。英國設計師可能會講兩三種語言，這是歐洲共同體市場提供的優勢，台灣身處亞洲節點，也有屬於自己的優勢，卻較為較保守，往往不願意走出去。
From a broader view, the global integration of Taiwan is relatively deficient. The environment is also somewhat isolated. An English designer might be bilingual or even trilingual, thanks to the privilege of the European market. However, Taiwan, which should also appreciate its advantage as a pivot of Asia, the environment is more conservative, unwilling to reach out.
國際化程度直接反映到對於外國消費文化的洞察能力。以距離台灣最近的東南亞為例，東南亞的消費者習慣透過首飾展現個人特色，喜歡一次配戴多件或隨意搭配。相較之下，台灣的客群偏愛日韓風格，物件較為小而精巧。如果台灣的設計師侷限於自己的文化經驗，產品就很難在東南亞市場受到歡迎。
Internalization reflects directly on the perception of foreign consumer culture. Take Southeast Asia, which is one of the nearest regions for Taiwan for example, consumers in Southeast Asia tend to show personal characteristics by wearing jewelry. They prefer jewelry with freestyle and multiple collocations. In contrast, Taiwanese costumers prefer Japanese or Korean style, relatively smaller and more delicate design. If Taiwanese designers limit themselves in their cultural experience, their products may find difficult to be popular in Southeast Asia market.
而要走向國際，Cherry從日成集團深耕國際市場的經驗出發，認為台灣的設計師首要任務是善用媒體平台，發展自己的特色，才能吸引到強調議題與社群認同的Y世代及Z世代。「只做設計是不夠的。」Cherry指出，設計師一定要了解自己的消費者（Know Your Customer），不僅能自建品牌，更要具備行銷能力。最後，設計師必須敞開心胸，樂於接受新觀念。跳脫自己思維的框架，並願意接受批評，才能在快速變動的市場中掌握消費者的需求。
To order to go global, based on the experience of Regal Jewelry, Cherry underlines the priority for Taiwanese designers: utilizing the media platform and develop a unique feature. That is how you can attract Y-generation and Z-generation, who value community identity and social issues. “It’s not enough to just design stuff.” Cherry points out. As a designer, one must Know Your Customer, develop a brand, and sell it. Lastly, designers must open their minds and embrace new concepts. Only those willing to accept judgments and think outside the box can grasp the consumer demands in the rapidly changing market.
台灣其實存在許多極具潛力的設計師與年輕品牌，Cherry期待未來台灣的首飾精品產業能更加多元、活潑及跨界共創，同時在國際上獲得更大的能見度。在這一點上，日成集團雖然無法代替設計師進行設計，期望能透過平台及服務生態鏈的支持，幫助每一位設計者與更廣大的市場對話。
In fact, there are many potential designers and young brands in Taiwan. Cherry expects that Taiwan’s jewelry boutique industry will be more diversified and livelier in the future, and at the same time, it will gain greater visibility in the world. At this point, although the Regal Group cannot replace designers in designing, it hopes to help every designer in dialogue with the broader market through the support of the platform and service ecosystem.
- Pop Up Asia Trade Fair 亞洲手創展
- 松山文創園區 三、四、五號倉庫
- 2020/11/19(四)～11/22(日)
- 10:00am～6:00pm
- 刷卡購票：https://lihi1.com/eG648
